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Stand up paddleboarding has a long history, so the design of boards and other equipment has gone through many changes. From the earliest its earliest roots in seafaring and fishing, to early 20th Century surf boards, to modern-day specialisms like SUP racing and touring, today's SUP boards have evolved to match the wide variety this sport has to offer.
It's important to get to know the anatomy of your SUP board; it helps you with safety on the water, board maintenance, and understanding why different boards perform differently in the water. This last one is particularly important before buying your first SUP board, as we explain here. (link to article)
So, let's get into it. The three essential parts of your SUP gear are the board, the paddle, and the fins. (The paddle and fins may or may not be included when you buy a board, depending on what model you go for). The diagrams below explain the key features of each of these parts.
Quick Summary:

The front of the board is called the nose, you can also call it the tip or simply the front. Other SUPers will know what you mean if you use any of these! There is variation in the shape of the nose across different boards, as the shape affects how the board cuts through the water. Many boards feature a rounded nose for better stability, however a more pointed nose is often seen on racing or long-distance touring boards, as it helps you achieve higher speeds.
The back of the board is called the tail. As with the nose, boards can feature different shaped tails for different purposes, the three types you will see are:
The top of the board where the paddler stands is called the deck, similar to a boat.
On the deck of your board you will notice an area that is textured and softer than the rest. The deck pad's main role is to provide better grip when you are standing on the board, it also makes the board more comfortable to stand, kneel, or fall onto.
Fins provide additional stability and help your board angle straight in the water. Without a fin the back end of your board would be constantly trying to drift sideways when you paddle.
The front part of the fin is called the leading edge, the angle of curvature on the leading edge is called the 'rake' and directly impacts the board's ability to turn. The back edge is the trailing edge.
The fin box is where you attach your fin. Some boards have just one, some boards will have more than one as they have space for side bite fins
These fins – which are fixed inside the so-called fin box – are there to provide additional stability and help the SUP track straight in flat water. Without them, the back end of the board naturally would keep drifting and sliding out sideways with each stroke of the paddle.
Most boards, especially inflatable ones, will come with fins ready to attach. But you can also buy additional/replacement fins for most boards. Check out our selection in our online shop.
There are a few different methods to secure a fin to your SUP board. Our diagram shows both the peg method and the screw method, but a board will not have both, so be sure to check the attachment method for your board before buying any extra fins.
On inflatable SUPs this is where you attach the pump to inflate the board. You can also buy adaptors for this valve (link) so that you can inflate your board using any pump you have at home.
Solid SUPs feature vents to release gasses that get trapped inside the foam core of the board. As the air temperature changes the gasses will expand and contract, so the vent allows you to regulate this internal pressure by releasing the gasses.
Helps with carrying the board and can also assist with getting back onto the board if you fall in the water.
Bungee cords are there to help you store gear such as a water bottle, drybag containing your phone/wallet/keys, and any other essentials you might want (see here for our article on what to pack for a SUP trip!). The bungee cord allows easy access but a secure grip and you can slide items in and out
A D-ring can have a few uses on a SUP board such as securing safety gear, anchors or seats, but it's primary one is to secure your ankle leash. There are also other methods of attaching a leash that your board may feature such as a plug in attachment. It's important to know which attachment your board has so you can buy the correct leash to fit it.
This refers to the curve of the SUPs profile from nose to tail. Many SUPS feature a rocker at the nose to help the board glide over the water. Some boards feature a tail rocker as well. The rocker doesn't make much difference when SUPping on calm waters but will help you keep stable whilst surfing
The edges of your SUP board are called the Rails. This may seem like an insignificant part of the SUP, but the rail thickness is the clearest indicator of the boards volume, which directly impacts it's buoyancy, stability and speed in the water. Rail thickness is typically a big difference between solid and inflatable SUPs, with solid boards having thinner rails.

T-bar grip: ergonomic grip designed to hold comfortably in the palm of your hand
Scale: on adjustable paddles. Allows users to adjust the paddle to their height. Very useful if you are sharing the paddle between family members.
Dual lock pin and clasp: this allows you to lock the paddle once you have adjusted the height
Shaft: the long cylindrical part of the paddle, the hand that is not on the t bar grip will hold here
Blade: the wide, flat part of the paddle that cuts through the water
Throat: where the shaft meets the blade of the paddle
Tip: the very bottom of the paddle
Like normal surf boards
A paddleboard leash is a cord (leash) with a strap (leash cup) that attaches your board to your body, typically around the ankle, sometimes around the waist.
This is an important piece of safety equipment, especially for open ocean SUPs as it helps to keep you in reach of your board even if you fall off.
Most paddle board leashes are made from durable materials like nylon or neoprene, vary in length depending on the size of the paddleboard, and they typically feature a quick-release mechanism in case you need to detach yourself from the leash in an emergency.